Day 4: Sandpoint to Thompson Falls, MT

Today was the most beautiful day so far. We were in view of water, either a lake or a river, virtually the entire way. The temperature was actually in the high 60's when we started off at 7:30, and stayed in the 70's for the morning, but then the mercury soared up to 100 by the end of the ride. Most of the climbs today were relatively mellow 3 and 4% grades, so our knees all got a break.

We left Sandpoint on a congested road, but soon took a turnoff that went around the north shore of Lake Pend Oreille for 20 miles. It is a beautiful large lake surrounded by steep forested hills, with numerous little inlets and bays. It reminded me a bit of Lake Maggiore in northern Italy (minus, obviously, the trendy lakeside trattorias and luxury villas...), or the lake district in southern Chile.

One of the great things about the Pactour folks that are running this ride is their ability to find small, untravelled backroads. After leaving the lake, we turned on to one such road, and stole into Montana soon thereafter, without any welcoming sign. Such roads often have less than perfect tarmac, but that is a fair trade for being free of cars.

We then headed through the small town of Clarks Fork, and rode along the Clark Fork river all the way into Thompson Falls. I wondered if Sacajawea had led the Corps of Discovery through this very area long ago. Thompson Falls is a pretty little place nestled between two high forested ridges. Our motel is quite rustic, but clean, and is the only dining option nearby. Gourmet food it is not, but we were all able to "strap on the feedbag" to prepare for tomorrow. We're now on Mountain time, so we lose an hour of sleep tonight.

When I got to my room, I noticed that my blackberry had no reception. I thus figured that there was no way that this tiny burg would have WiFi but I tried anyway, and lo and behold, the internet is alive and well in Thompson Falls!

I can listen to KING FM on my laptop, and read the NY Times on line (I doubt if there is a paper copy of the NYT within 100 miles of here), which yesterday had an interesting piece in the Science Times called the Bicycling Paradox.......an analysis of why some apparently out of shape large people can be effective cyclists. This tour has lots of grey hair, a few pot bellies, and, to be honest, a few people that look like they shouldn't be here. But I'm impressed; they all slog away and finish the ride every day so far. More power to them.

A special thanks to all the Seattle Chamber Music Society board members who are making pledges to the society in support of my ride. Your response has been very gratifying!

Tomorrow is another long day, about 135 miles to Missoula, via the small town of St. Regis. Unfortunately we will have to ride on I-90 for several short stretches, because there are no options.

86 miles today. 2500 vertical feet